Riding the rails of Ramadan: a spiritual journey from Jakarta to Surabaya

29/3/2023

TRADITIONS

Have you ever had an experience that completely changed your life? Years ago, I took a train ride that changed my life. It's a journey through the heart of Indonesia during the holy month of Ramadan, a time of fasting, reflection and spiritual growth. As someone who had never experienced Ramadan before, I didn't know what to expect. But what I found along the way was amazing.

BY HANAN, 5 minutes read

Train in the railway station Kota Tua in Jakarta. Credits Hanan Scheers.

As I got out of the taxi and walked towards the train station entrance, I was immediately overwhelmed by the sound of Jakarta in the early morning. The air was filled with the bustle of people hurrying to catch their trains and the sound of honking cars and street vendors selling their wares. It was Ramadan and the station was crowded with travellers looking forward to make their way to their destinations. As I made my way towards the train platform, I felt anticipation for the journey ahead and the unique atmosphere of travel during this special time.

Boarding the train from Jakarta to Surabaya during Ramadan filled me with excitement and anticipation. It was my first time travelling during Ramadan and I was eager to experience the unique atmosphere on the train ride for the next 16 hours.

Despite the early hour, the passengers seemed to be in a meditative state

The atmosphere on the train was different from any other train ride I had been on before. The carriage was relatively quiet and most people were seated with their eyes closed, lost in deep reflection. Despite the early hour, the passengers seemed to be in a meditative state, contemplating the meaning and significance of Ramadan.

With the train in motion, a sense of calm happened me, the gentle rocking motion of the carriage and the peaceful atmosphere providing a welcome respite from the bustle of Jakarta. Gazing out of the window, I watched as the cityscape gradually gave way to the stunning countryside of Java, with its green fields and rolling hills stretching out as far as the eye could see. With the sun slowly rising in the sky, I felt grateful for this moment of tranquility and reflection, eagerly anticipating what the rest of the journey would bring.

Trains in the railway station Kota Tua in Jakarta. Credits Hanan Scheers.

The train was crowded with all sorts of passengers making their way to various destinations. I saw families with young children, elderly couples and groups of friends, all sharing in the experience of travelling during Ramadan. Most of the passengers were fasting and I noticed that they seemed to be coping with the long journey remarkably well.

The respectful and calm mood on the train made me appreciate the importance of this special month even more. As the hours ticked by, I felt lost in deep thought, contemplating the mysteries of life and the beauty of this unique experience.

I could see the beads of sweat forming on the foreheads of some of the passengers

The train chugged along and I felt the heat become more intense. The sun beat down on the train, causing the temperature inside the carriage to rise. The lack of air conditioning made the carriages stuffy and hot. I could see the beads of sweat forming on the foreheads of some of the passengers. However, I knew that this was a small price to pay for the opportunity to experience Ramadan on a train.

Despite the discomfort, the passengers coped well, drawing strength from their faith and the camaraderie of their fellow travellers. As the train made its way through the countryside, I could see people lost in thought, contemplating the deeper meaning of Ramadan and their place in the world. The sense of community and togetherness was palpable and it made me realise the true spirit of Ramadan, which is about coming together as a community and sharing in the blessings of this special month.

It was an opportunity to be part of something larger than myself

During the journey, the train made a few stops, but there were no vendors selling snacks or drinks before sunset, as it's common during normal train rides. Instead, the passengers spent the time engaging in various activities, such as chatting with one another, listening to music, playing games or simply enjoying the scenery. Some were in groups, having lively conversations, while others preferred to spend their time in solitude, reading books or taking a nap.

The journey felt fulfilling and purposeful with the lack of distractions. The train continued and I felt grateful for this unique experience. It was an opportunity to be part of something larger than myself and connect with people in a profound and meaningful way.

Passengers reached for their bags and began to pull out their food and drinks

As the sun begins to set, the train transforms into a space full of activity, signaling the breaking of the fast for the day. Passengers reached for their bags and began to pull out their food and drinks, carefully preparing to break their fast in accordance with their religious traditions.

The breaking of the fast was a moment of pure joy and gratitude, a time for reflection and coming together in celebration of the spirit of Ramadan. As the passengers ate their simple meals, I could feel the warmth and generosity of spirit permeating the carriage, bringing everyone together in a moment of unity and connection.

In the train somewhere between Jakarta and Surabaya. Credits Tom Scheers.

Upon arrival at Surabaya after midnight, a feeling of contentment and gratitude enveloped me. The sense of community and togetherness that I had experienced on this long trip far surpassed any discomfort or difficulty I had faced.

Reflecting on my journey, I realised that Ramadan is about much more than just abstaining from food and drink during the day. It's a time for introspection, spiritual growth and connection with others.

I felt privileged to have been a part of something truly special

Entering my room in Surabaya filled me with an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the journey I had just completed. The experience had offered me a profound insight into the richness and beauty of Ramadan and I knew that it would remain etched in my memory forever. Witnessing the resilience and devotion of my fellow passengers had been a truly inspiring experience and I felt privileged to have been a part of something truly special.

Once into my bed, I found myself already looking forward to the next opportunity to experience the magic of Ramadan. I knew that it would be difficult to recreate the sense of connection and unity that I had experienced on my recent adventure, but I was eager to continue exploring the many facets of this special time. With a sense of peace and contentment, I drifted off to sleep, grateful for the experiences that had brought me here and excited for what the future held.